 It’s time to bid adieu to that perfectly preened barnet. Both texture and length are going to be key over the next 12 months; think the collar-brushing locks of Robert Redford and Dustin Hoffman in All The Presidents’ Menand Chris Hemsworth in Thor.
Not that it will grow in overnight, mind. However, start now, and you’ll be able to pull off that ‘straight out of the ocean’ surfer swagger in six to eight months. To go hell for leather hair, ignore anyone who brings up ‘peak beard’ (again). Providing it suits the face it calls home, 10-day stubble gives off the desirable impression of a man that’s been too damn busy bringing his A-game to bother with shaving. Of course, we all know that ‘just got out of bed’ hair does require a little bit of effort. Though the right products, such as a salt spray or matt pomade scrunched into the hair, will help produce a natural, textured finish. This first appeared on FashionBeans
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 Spotlight on the latest men’s cutting and styling techniques, so you can up your game for 2018 in the barbershop, and create the cool new looks everyone will be wanting in no time!
If you’re following any trendy barbers on Instagram (particularly the ones based in Europe), go take a look at your feed right now. What do you see? Texture, longer hair and fringes? Yes, we’re definitely at a crossroads when it comes to new shapes and haircuts for men. The European Influence This latest transformation for men (like so many other big hair trends over the decades!) has taken off in the U.K. more than in any other country, it seems. “I’ve been seeing this coming out of the U.K. for over a year and a half now,” says Tay Atelier (@TayAtelier on Instagram), Redken for Men artist and Y.S. Park Canada brand ambassador. “We’re seeing hair transition from very defined side parts and undercuts to a modern crop with much more texture on the top.” There’s a big shift in fringes coming, too. “It’s really short now, with a length of about two inches and sitting high on the forehead, definitely above the eyebrows. The inspiration comes from the Caesar haircut, but it’s done in a really modern way.” “There’s a very fresh look in barbering right now coming from Europe,” says BaBylissPRO educator and freelance barber Sofia Pok (@staygold31 on Instagram). Traditionally, we’re used to seeing more of a square outline for men’s haircuts but now the shape is rounder and not based on cutting structure anymore. “That being said, hair is definitely longer but cleaner on the sides,” adds Pok. Hybrid Styles “At the salon where I work in Brampton, Ontario,” says Atelier, “we’re seeing very young, cool high school kids come in and want something drastically different they’re loving on social media that’s reminiscent of the ’80s. Perms are high on their radar and there’s a lot of movement in the hair.” For Pok, barbering is entering a new phase and merging with more traditional hairstyling. “Yes, there’s still a bit of that old style barbering, but with a new finish and feel. A lot of the modern haircuts are not standard, and hybrid styles are really coming on strong.” What exactly are “hybrid styles”? The merge between barbering and hairstyling techniques are still making their way in the industry, and barbers should learn how to work and perform better with longer hair, says Atelier. “For instance, if your client isn’t ready to go for a perm, start working with hot tools—say a flat iron or a wand—to create those curls.” Texturizing is King Pomade used to be the big thing to finish a traditional barbering hairstyle. But, according to Pok, the trend now is for a puffier haircut, which you can easily achieve with point cutting. “Hair on the forehead is bigger and worn forward. So, to balance all that, you need to create more texture on the top of the head.” To create these looks, focus on clays, putties and sea salts, as well as curl lotions and products to retain curls while eliminating frizz. Also fading away are pompadours, particularly for the type of client who wants the latest and boldest hairstyles. “Keep in mind, though, that it always depends on the style of the client you have in your chair. The clean cuts do have staying power for the more classic and traditional man,” explains Atelier. The main thing to remember is to make a point of learning something new every year that takes you out of your comfort zone. Taking classes for cutting and styling longer hair may also be prudent as it’s an important time to cater to the very specific desires of a discerning male clientele. Fading and blending are still super important, says Pok, but the main thing is to understand the use of all the tools you have at your disposal and to practice as much as possible. “For instance, sometimes you don’t need to apply that much pressure on a clipper to get that kick-ass fade, but that’s learned [with much time and experience].” This article first appeared on Salon Magazine CA  To plug or not to plug? That is the hairy question all men must one day face. To start, I’m a twenty-seven year old who’s been perpetually balding since I was 18. It began when I reached my genetically predisposed peak of “growing my hair out” while in Uni. I had a supportive ex, who in retrospect, must have truly loved me for the sheer fact that my hair looked quite appalling. He never spoke a word of my balding nature (note: he is colourist in Manhattan), and it wasn’t until my 40-something fill-in mum friend told me, “Honey, your hair looks like shit”, that I came out of the dark to accept that fact that I…in the prime of my youth…was balding. Maybe that’s why I was given this piece to write in the first place. Does everyone at the D’Marge office have a beautiful head of hair? Do they not suffer from male pattern baldness? Is this a way for the beloved team to suggest I get hair plugs? All these questions quickly came to mind when I saw this topic pop up in my inbox. Anyway, here we are. And as I sit here, with a cold draft passing over my nearly bald scalp, I can’t help but wonder if now is the time for hair plugs. Considering The Final Plug I can’t lie. The word “hair plugs” carries negative stigma in my mind. It reminds me of my poorly groomed, Larry David-esque uncle from the Bronx who smokes one too many cigarettes on his sun-faded plastic patio furniture. He’s the candidate for hair plugs…not me. You love him, but you can’t help but to notice the 7 slicked over hairs that fail to cover a polished scalp. Hair plugs…plugs…gah. As a stickler for words, some I just can’t get down with. But when presented in different context, the idea of “plugging” my dead follicles doesn’t sound all too awful. I knew if I were to go forward with this thought, I’d have to designate its alternative terms, such as “hair transplant surgery” or “hair restoration”. Just please, don’t make me call it a hair “plug”. Knowing The Procedures  After I was able to come to fruition with this, I reached out to my cousin Tommy who does plastic surgery on Long Island. He doesn’t do hair transplants specifically, but I knew he’d have the information I needed to determine if I wanted hair revival or not. There’s a few different ways to do it that did not sound appealing whatsoever: “flap surgery”, “tissue expansion”, “scalp reduction”…what the actual f*ck? But what truly resonated, and what is most common, was hair transplantation, a technique briefly referred to before. The process is pretty simple. Someone who’s not my cousin uproots small pieces of lush hair from a donor site, and uses it as a graft to be implanted at the dead zone. It’s either that or I opt to tattoo hair onto my bald head. My body is already 25% covered in ink – I don’t need any more unless it’s truly a work of art I can admire everyday. My dead zone is front-and-centre, Larry David style (thank you genetics), male pattern baldness. Because I have thick hair that covers the rest of my scalp, my cousin suggested that I’d make a brilliant candidate for transplant surgery. He’s got mates that do it and I actually went ahead to schedule a consultation with one of them. Letting Go Of Your Insecurities Do I feel vain or any less masculine because I want my hair back? No. Am I embarrassed to say I am considering plastic surgery for my hair? Absolutely not. I don’t believe a guy should feel discerned because he wants to have a full head of hair again. Quite frankly, the main reason I haven’t thought about hair plugs…I mean, hair restoration surgery, is because I’ve grown used to my bi-weekly buzz. It works for my all-black, Doc Marten yielding winter-fall get up, as well as my achromatic grey, essential-only summer-spring style. I’ve grown comfortable with the low maintenance and clean look of nearly bald head. But maybe now is the time for a change of style? Not in my clothes, but in my hair. While I don’t plan to look like Thor, more because I’m convinced I genetically can’t, a tapered comb-over with messy, long layers would be a nice change in contrast the utilitarian look I’ve been carrying for quite some time. So in short my answer is, yes, I would get hair transplant surgery – with not an ounce of shame, vanity, or de-masculisation. And I extend that same gesture to you out there, you balding wonder. This article first appeared on D'Marge Here are a few articles I've shared on my Facebook Page about hair transplants. Jeremy McConnell shows off shocking blood-stained face after undergoing hair and beard transplant in Turkey Alex Beattie gets a HAIR TRANSPLANT in a bid to 'improve his confidence after being bullied' And Yes, even Prince Harry. Prince Harry to spend huge sum of money on hair transplant  All you need to know about the most iconic up-do One of the most iconic haircuts to have ever graced men’s heads, the quiff has been big (and big news) since the 1950s, earning it a place in the follicular hall of fame alongside other icons of the barber’s chair including the French crop, buzz cut and short back and sides. Splicing together elements of the pompadour, flat top and sometimes even the mohawk, unafraid to make its voluminous presence felt, the amped-up quiff suits a wide range of ages, face shapes and personal styles. According to research, it’s also judged one of the sexiest by women. When quizzed by styling product company Fudge on which haircut they are most likely to swipe right to on dating apps, 28 per cent of the 2,000 females asked picked the quiff. The History Of The Quiff The hairstyle itself had been around for some years by the time it became popular as a post-war reaction to military buzz cuts and flat wartime styles. But it only became truly iconic with the advent of rock ‘n’ roll, when it became an overnight badge of teenage revolt. “As a style, it has always represented rebellion, and it screams confidence,” says ReeRee Rockette, owner of Rockalily Cuts. “It’s a hairstyle that literally takes up more space, so it makes you stand out and gets you noticed.” The fact that the hair was piled upwards also meant that it had a natural tendency to flop forwards, demanding constant attention. That in itself became part of the quiff’s iconic appeal, with Elvis managing to turn combing his hair in public into an act as sexually charged as a shake of the hips or a caress of the microphone. This unabashed narcissism also liberated men from the tyranny of not having to outwardly care about their appearance, laying the ground for the grooming revolution we take for granted today. Bottom line? It’s not an exaggeration to say that the quiff changed the course of hair-story. The Quiff VS The Pompadour Arguments rage over how the quiff itself differs from other classic cuts, such as the pompadour. As a general rule, the classic quiff is less showy than the kind of top-heavy pomp sported by rock ‘n’ roll legend Little Richard and later Bruno Mars. “In truth, there’s no black and white answer,” admits Devon-based barber Tom Chapman, founder of mental health awareness group The Lions Barber Collective. “A typical quiff features short back and sides, and longer hair on top that’s swept upwards and backwards at the front. But this can be messy, straightened or brushed, making it a generally more versatile style. Pompadours are similar in that they take the hair off, up and away from the face, but are usually glossier and are very precise.” While pomps, quite literally, big up all the hair, quiffs predominantly focus on the forelock (the hair just above the forehead) and in some cases, the rest can remain relatively flat. “Ask your barber for a tapered cut with plenty of length on top and you can’t really go wrong,” says Chapman. Choosing A Quiff Style When it comes to choosing your own style of quiff, one of the most important factors to take into consideration (as with most cuts) is your face shape. Fortunately, there is an up-do for every dude, but they are especially good for those looking to elongate a round face. “Rounder faces tend to have little structure or prominent angles, so a square-shaped hairstyle with height such as a quiff or classic casual side part with some height will be flattering,” says celebrity groomer Amy Komorowski, who has tended to the barnets of Eddie Redmayne and Ryan Reynolds. Exercise caution if you have a particularly thin face, though – the higher the hair, the more angular and elongated it’ll make you look. Instead, opt for something a bit more single story than towering skyscraper. Since most modern quiffs require shaving or fading at the sides to emphasise what’s on top, they don’t always look great on guys with larger ears, either. “The beauty of the quiff is that, depending on the shape or how tight the sides are taken, it can look quite different on whoever is wearing it, so you can make the style your own,” says Steve Robinson from the Electric Hair Group. “The most modern take on the quiff is certainly to have the sides finished with a fade.” Quiffs also work with most hair types, except those that are very curly, excessively frizzy or very fine. “Movement creates texture, so wavy hair can be a godsend when creating a slightly more textured, messier look, but you can always use straighteners to achieve a more classic-looking quiff,” says Chapman, who suggests investing in smaller irons, which tend to work better on shorter styles. Key Quiff Hairstyles For Men The Classic Quiff  Despite being the earliest version of the hairstyle, the classic quiff has held its place as one of the most stylish for decades. As with any quiff (and any hairstyle other than a mullet, for that matter), the ageless cut features shorter hair on the back and sides than on top. However, unlike contemporary takes on the style, the difference between the two is less severe, giving it a softer feel. When sitting in the chair, tell the barber that you’re after around four-to-five inches growth on top, with slightly more left at the fringe. Ask for the hair at the sides to be taken comparatively short, but not disconnected, and without a fade. Due to the natural weight of having longer hair, don’t overdo it on the products when it comes to styling, as this can cause the hair to fall flat. “After washing, start by towel drying the hair and apply a small amount of matte paste as a pre-styling agent,” says Chapman. “Next, create [your quiff] using either your fingers or a comb while blow drying the hair to add volume.” Finish the look by working in a traditional pomade for added definition and shine. Take a small amount and rub it between your palms and fingertips, then slick it through your hair from front to back. The Rockabilly Quiff  The pompadour may be the cut that’s been getting all the press recently, but according to Chapman, it’s the quiff that’s likely to stay the course. “The pomp is high maintenance, can be hard to style and often requires a heavy product, and lots of it,” he says. “The quiff, meanwhile, has been consistently popular for decades; partly because it’s more relaxed, and there are so many different variations which can be worn by anyone.” One of those enduring styles is the rockabilly quiff. The 1940s and 1950s cut, popular among the Greaser subculture of the time, has been worn by everyone from James Dean and Elvis Presley to Alex Turner and Zayn Malik. “A traditional rockabilly quiff often has a side part, which can be shaved in, or combed,” says Rockette. “There’s also less height than with a pompadour and the hair around top is faded in.” When discussing this style, it’s also common to hear the term ‘ducktail’, which refers to creating a central parting with the side sections curled in. Whichever you decide to go for, pomade is your best friend when it comes to styling. “Warm the product up in your hands, smooth it through, and then comb,” says Rockette. “You’ll benefit from using a hairdryer, and you’ll definitely need a comb. I’m often amazed at how many men say they don’t own one.” The Undercut Quiff  A sharper, sleeker take on the old-school classic, the undercut quiff retains an authentic vintage feel, but also looks modern and edgy. The style works best when there is plenty of hair on top which can be slicked back, but bear in mind that, generally, the longer the hair is, the more time it will take to style. The undercutting itself can be can either soft, with gentle graduation, or severe, with the sides kept at one length. In either case, it’s the disconnection and contrast between long and short that gives this look its impact. “Ask your barber to disconnect the sides from the top, level with your recession point until the back of the ear,” says Chapman. “Choose the fade or taper style below the disconnection and create lots of texture through the top with length left for your quiff at the front.” To create the texture, Chapman suggests applying a salt spray when the hair is still damp and blow-drying it into shape with the help of a round brush before finishing off with some matte clay product for separation. The Psychobilly Quiff  An exaggerated, almost cartoonish version of the traditional quiff with elements of a mohawk, the psychobilly quiff (also known as the wedge quiff) has its origins in the fusion of rockabilly and punk. “A psychobilly quiff is achieved by completely shaving the back and sides down to a zero, allowing a sculpted, reverse shark fin-style quiff left to take all of the glory,” says Rockette. By that description alone, it should be clear that the more extreme examples of this hairstyle are not going to fly in every office. However, it is possible to tone down the look by creating a looser, less structured front, and keeping the sides slightly longer. Whether styling it traditionally or for the 9-5, getting height on the quiff is key. “You’ll need a hair dryer at the very least,” says Rockette. “And every single hair strand will need product on it to enable it to stand up straight, so you’ll need a comb [to work it through].” A psychobilly quiff, like its rockabilly cousin, is best styled using a strong-hold pomade. This will help achieve the rigidity and height needed, but you’ll also need a little help from a coating of hairspray, which will add an extra shield against the forces of gravity. The Textured Quiff  A less formal, more relaxed take on the traditional quiff favoured by the likes of David Gandy, this version is less about sleekness and shine and more about matte texture. “Because it’s less polished and less structured it’s easy to maintain and, depending on the length of the quiff, you can change up your style at any time,” says Saboo. A textured quiff is perfect for winter, when blustery winds and a little drizzle will probably only make it look better. This in-built feature also makes it an ideal choice for guys with wavy or generally unruly hair. “To achieve the look, have a barber clipper your hair short on the sides and back, fading into the longer hair on the top that’s point-cut with scissors for an uneven, textured look,” he says. Though it may appear unfussy, the textured quiff takes a bit of effort to get there. The first aim of the styling routine is to add depth and bulk, so do this with a texture powder or volumising spray added to the roots. From there, Saboo suggests a very specific technique for achieving the desired end result. “Rub a styling paste or soft clay between your fingers and hands, so the warmth of your palms makes the product more manageable. Then, twist the hair slightly at the sides of the crown, pushing it upwards, before passing your hands through the quiff until you are happy with the result and the quiff stays in place.” The Side-Parted Quiff  One way to render an existing quiff instantly smarter is to tone down its rebelliousness by working in a side parting. While it’s possible to do so with most types of quiff, if it’s your full-time intention, it’s worth letting your barber know.
To create a side parting, celebrity hairstylist Asgar Saboo suggests using your palms and smooth the product into the sides. “Comb the top section away from the parting, so there is a clean divide, then lift and shape the fringe into your desired style.” If a completely polished look is what you’re after, perfect the finish with the comb. Or, for a slightly more natural result, rough it up a little with your hands for a more rugged effect. Equally, a variety of different finishes can be achieved by simply altering your styling product. High-shine products will channel Ivy League vibes while something matte will skew casual and contemporary. Essential Equipment Hairdryer To ensure your quiff is on point, start by investing in a hair dryer. Look for a lightweight model with a cool setting to avoid flame grilling your hair, which will cause it to appear dry and brittle. “The two stages for blow-drying is wet to dry and then hot to cold,” says Robinson, who also suggests blasting the hair with the cool shot button on the hairdryer for 10 seconds to help hold the finished look in place. Round Brush Quiffs require significantly more maintenance than, say, a buzz cut. So be prepared to shell out on some basic styling gear like a round brush to tease the hair into shape as you blow dry it. Getting the best results from a brush requires some practice, especially if you’re wielding a hair dryer with the other hand. “It’s all about gently working the brush through your locks while guiding the hair [into place],” says Chapman. If going for a side parting, you’ll also need a medium-sized comb to exaggerate your natural side-parting and achieve a sharper-looking finish. Paste And Pomade The traditional styling aid for creating a quiff is a high-shine pomade. The earliest types were made from animal fat and therefore had to be scented with fruit (hence the ‘pomme’ in the name). Thankfully, today’s water-based alternatives are less messy, easier to wash out of hair and much kinder to your pillowcase. If shine is not your thing, opt for a styling paste. “These are translucent, so hair looks and feels like hair but it keeps the style in place without being too oily or too dry,” says Robinson. Hairspray “For extra hold, spray a small amount of hairspray onto your round brush when blow-drying,” says Daniel Davies, general manager of London’s Pall Mall Barbers. “This gives a firm hold without the need to fill your hair with product and is a trick I often use on gents looking to achieve a quiff.” This article first appeared on FashionBeans 1/28/2018 How To Brush Your Hair CorrectlyUltimate Guide To Men’s Hairbrushes  How easy is brushing hair? Simple, right? You do it every morning… Same technique, same tool… But what if I told you… You’ve been doing it wrong your whole life? Sounds kind of silly? Hear me out… There might be a BETTER brush you’re unaware of… that could breed a hairstyle that gives you more confidence… It’s possible – with the right info. Below is everything you need to know about men’s hairbrushes.  The Right Hairbrush for Your Hair Type.  Straight Thin Hair When it comes to straight hair in general, there’s a 3-inch rule: if your hair doesn’t bend within the first 3 inches of length from the scalp, it’s straight. Here are some details that distinguish thin straight hair from its thick counterpart:
Straight Thick Hair These are the key points about thick straight hair that separate it from its thin equivalent:
Wavy Hair This category refers to the wave-like patterns created by slightly curving hair. The hair shafts do NOT coil up within the first 3 inches of length. Instead, they resemble loose and stretched out S-shapes. You can grow out wavy hair to resemble a mini lion’s mane and enjoy plenty of texture. However – this will require more maintenance. One advantage of this hair type is flexibility – it can be styled in several different ways. It’s also less likely to be tousled by the wind than straight hair is. But it also frizzes easily, so it’s important that you maintain the waves. Coiled Hair (Curly With Large Curls) Large curls require that the shafts create very distinct S-shapes (the more extreme ones being E-shapes) within the first 2 inches from the scalp. People with coiled hair are blessed with lots of coverage over the head. There are guys who get to grow their hair out and become a “white boy ‘fro.” They don’t have to resort to the same fancy styles that straight-haired men use to add volume. The actual hair strands here can either be coarse or fine (although it’s more often fine). Coarse strands are more prone to frizziness while with fine strands, it’s harder to create well-defined curls. Kinky Hair (Curly With Tight Curls) This is the most textured hair type. Its coiled intervals are so short that the shafts form sharp Z-shaped twists (hence “kinky”). These twists form within the first half-inch of length from the scalp. Kinky hair is most commonly found in men of African descent. The hair can be grown into a classic Afro and gain lots of volume. You can also choose to shave it off and make it a fade cut. The downside is these coils aren’t as well-defined as large curls, due to their naturally short state. They require much more maintenance since they can look fuzzy and unkempt after some time. Dryness and shrinkage may also be serious problems if you’re not careful. Understanding Men’s Hair Brushes Choosing the right hair brush can solve different problems your hair might face, or even prevent them from happening at all. That’s why you need to start by knowing the anatomy of a brush.  As shown above, each hair brush type is totally dependent on the 3 major parts.  Oval hairbrushes are usually the oval version of the Paddle brush, which does a fantastic job in massaging your scalp and redistributing hair oils. Rectangle hairbrushes range from the Denman brush or Vented brush to the thinner, rectangular kind of Paddle brush. All of these can create more volume at the roots, flip up the hair or curl it under. Square hairbrushes are basically the original Paddle brushes (as they resemble paddles). They’re useful in getting rid of frizz or tangles without putting much pressure on the hair. Round hairbrushes have either natural or synthetic bristles all over the head. When partnered with a blow dryer, they work great for shaping your hair into multiple styles. But they also come in various sizes – compatible for tight curls or even long waves – so choose the brush size carefully based on your hair length.  Each Type Of Men’s Hair Brush Below are the other men’s hairbrush types which are worth considering. Each one of them has its own set of advantages. Pocket Comb
Rectangle Brush
Vented Brush
Military Palm Brush
Wide-Tooth Comb
Oval Brush
Paddle Brush
Round Brush
Denman Brush
Hair Pick
Foldable Comb
Hair Brush Sponge
Hair Brush Bristle Types Here’s a breakdown of the different types of hairbrush bristles and the benefits of each one.  Nylon
Wooden
Comb Teeth
Boars Hair
Mixed Bristle
This article first appeared on RMRS - Real Men Real Style
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